Proud, Painful Art on Baghdad’s Blast Walls

Holly Pickett

BAGHDAD — Baghdad’s blast walls are a blank canvas. They reflect Iraqis’ shared history — both proud and painful facts of life here in the capital.

Holly Pickett for The New York Times

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Last August, Prime Minister Nuri Kamal al-Maliki ordered the walls removed from Baghdad’s main streets. Days later, a double truck bombing at the Finance and Foreign Ministries killed at least 95 people, and the plan to remove the walls was scrapped.

Holly Pickett for The New York Times

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It is impossible not to notice the walls, and the paintings and markings on them become like landmarks.

Holly Pickett for The New York Times

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Artists have painted some of the walls with reminders of things Iraqis have in common — ancient Mesopotamian history, religious symbols, portraits and patriotic slogans.

Holly Pickett for The New York Times

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Spray-painted graffiti occasionally adorns the walls. Faded and peeling campaign posters from Iraq’s 2009 election are still glued in place.

Holly Pickett for The New York Times

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The walls also record bomb blasts. Pocked with shrapnel holes or blackened with soot, these sections remind Baghdad residents why the walls are necessary.

Holly Pickett for The New York Times

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Holly Pickett for The New York Times